Trip to Nyungwe Rainforest, SW Rwanda 20-21 Oct 2010

View over Nyungwe forest from the Bigugu Trail (Photo by Marcell Claassen)

Posted by Jason on the Rwanda_BurundiBirds group on 30 October 2010

Last week I took a few days off work to show a visiting cousin around Rwanda. As well as a smashing trip to see the gorillas, I persuaded him to come down to Nyungwe to see the chimps and other primates too. Sure enough we were successful on all these fronts, and it turned out that there was time to do a spot of birding too.

The first day we went to see the chimps in Cyamudongo (a small tract of forest between Nyungwe and the DRC border, at about 1800m), with the excellent guide Narcisse Ndayambaje, whose mastery of forest birdcalls still amazes me. We arrived at dawn, and although we couldn't see them, Narcisse pointed out the distinctive call of Cabanis's Greenbul, a first for me. We also heard Grey Apalis, Narina's Trogon, Red-capped Robin-Chat and White-headed Wood-hoopoe. We had no time to stop and bird, as we wanted to get to the chimps before they `de-nested' (as they say in the chimp world – the English equivalent is `get up'). We succeeded in this and were rewarded with good views of chimps all around us, some getting up, others already feeding, and one or two of the larger males moseying along the forest trails nearby. A curious youngster came very close to see what we were, and every 5 minutes or so, their call rang out all around us. Nearby, mona monkeys were feeding (apparently they actively seek out the company of chimps, unlike other monkeys). Fantastic! But no birds.

Luckily, on the way back, we spotted several feeding parties. The first was a silent, stealthy party, moving through the mid-canopy, and allowed me to get good views of Cabanis's Greenbul. The pale throat and belly showed well, as did the rufous upper tail, but the pale eye ring was not as exaggerated as shown in Stevenson & Fanshawe. As well as Yellow-whiskered Greenbul, I spotted a couple of small birds feeding in a strombosia tree, which turned out to be Green Twinspot, male and female. On the way back to the car park we came across another feeding party in open woodland that included Ludher's Bush-Shrike, Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird, Collared Sunbird, Grey-backed Camaroptera, and my first record of Yellowbill for Rwanda, skulking inconspicuously in a tree overgrown with creepers. This feeding party blended with another working its way through the canopy. We spotted Black Cuckoo-Shrike, Northern Puffback, Black-billed Weaver and a lone White-browed Crombec among others previously mentioned.

Back at Gisakura that afternoon, I went out on my own, and found another nice feeding party in the gardens of the ORTPN Guesthouse. It included White-tailed Blue Flycatcher, Dusky Flycatcher, White-eyed Slaty-Flycatcher (incl. juvenile), Northern DC Sunbird, Paradise-Flycatcher, Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, Western Citril, Black-billed Weaver, Collared Sunbird and Brown-throated Wattle-eye. However the two highlights of this party were a Grey-headed Nigrita (my first record for Rwanda) and a Mountain Masked Apalis foraging in a pile of discarded Eucalypt branches on the ground – surprisingly for a species that I've only ever seen in the canopy or mid-storey. I got some nice photos which reveal a very different looking bird to that illustrated in Stevenson & Fanshawe – less black on the nape and throat, with larger white areas on the sides of the neck. The colour on the wings and mantle was very yellow, rather than a dull olive tone. I wondered if it could be an immature?: http://kilnsey.tripod.com/mountain_masked_apalis1.jpg http://kilnsey.tripod.com/mountain_masked_apalis2.jpg Later that afternoon I also found a female African Goshawk perching inconspicuously in the lower branches of a tree nearby.

The next day, as we only had a free morning and no car, we decided to do the waterfall walk with Narcisse. As soon as we started off, just behind the guesthouse, Narcisse heard Mountain Illadopsis (identifying the calls of both parent and young), which after a little patience all showed well foraging near the ground. Chinspot Batis and Mountain Masked Apalis were also around. The next bird was a real surprise – Purple-breasted Sunbird… in eucalypt. Narcisse remarked that he had seen very good numbers of these birds over the last few months, but that this was the first time he'd seen it in eucalypt. The male and presumed female were at the top of a tree and appeared to be feeding on the eucalypt flowers.

The tea plantations produced the usual poverty of species, but as well as the Streaky Seedeaters, Stonechats and Common Waxbills on the paths, there were Barn Swallows mixing with the Angola Swallows hawking overhead. A Siffling Cisticola was my third record of this species on tea plantations here, and Fawn-breasted Waxbills were a surprise, seen twice today in this area.

As we got closer to the forest, the calls of Rwenzori and Great Blue Turaco were both heard. Then on the top of a tree in a small isolated tract of native woodland I spotted two bright orioles that turned out to be Eurasian Golden Orioles, male and female with the former showing the distinctive black wing and lores and yellow wing spot. This was a first for both me and Narcisse, and I think for the atlas – Is it Marcell? (Marcell: this is indeed our 1st record for the Atlas)

African Green Pigeon, Grey Apalis, European Bee-eater and Mountain Buzzard (a pair) were all recorded before we made it to the forest proper. Despite the fact that it was already 9am, there was quite a lot of noise and activity in the forest. Red-faced Woodland-Warbler was the first we saw well among the many Northern Double-Collared Sunbirds. A little further on a Great Blue Turaco showed well for my cousin, who was completely amazed by this, his first turaco. A pair of Eastern Mountain Greenbuls were next and Black Saw-wing were seen overhead as we dropped down into the valley. As the undergrowth got thicker we came across several Equatorial Akalats, one of which posed patiently for photos ( http://kilnsey.tripod.com/equatorial_akalat.jpg ), followed by a similar bird with a distinctive light grey stripe above the eye. This turned out to be my first ever record of White-bellied Robin-Chat, which, as the book says, looks very much more like an akalat. The pale stripe is much stronger than in S&F (shown better in Sinclair and Ryan), but the tail is clear – orange outer feathers and a dark centre. Smashing bird. http://kilnsey.tripod.com/white-bellied_robin-chat.jpg

As we needed to get back for a 12 o'clock bus, Narcisse and Kev (my cousin) decided to pick up the pace and make it to the waterfall. I decided to lag behind and enjoy the birds, which were still showing well in the cool valley. Now, last time I decided to part with Narcisse in the forest (Bigugu Trail in January), he managed to find pretty much every montane endemic going (including my bogey species - Red-collared Mountain Babbler), while I spent an hour watching a pair of Regal Sunbirds nestbuilding, so I was a little apprehensive. However, this time I definitely made the right decision. The first stream valley there produced smashing views of Mountain Wagtail. Two male Black-faced Rufous Warblers were calling, and I was lucky enough to see a female briefly as she foraged in dense undergrowth, producing a constant `zik, zik' contact call. Both of these were new for me in Rwanda. The same valley also produced Blue-headed Sunbird, Regal Sunbird (without doubt my favourite bird in Nyungwe – this male was just incredible in his fresh breeding plumage – a little rainbow ball flying through the forest), Yellow-eyed Black Flycatcher (a noisy pair with a juvenile - here's one of the adults: http://kilnsey.tripod.com/yellow-eyed_black_flycatcher1.jpg ), Rwenzori Batis (also with a juvenile showing the brown-flecked crown), and also Black-billed Turaco (although I could only hear him – no views alas). Narcisse and Kev. showed up about an hour later, looking very tired, and having seen only the waterfall. So we pegged it back up to Gisakura and just made our bus.

Yellow-eyed Black Flycatcher

What a magical forest Nyungwe is. As the bus sped through the forest I felt sad that I was perhaps leaving it for the last time… In November I'm off back to the UK.

Jason

Common (Steppe) Buzzard in Musanze

I came across this bird at our site (Ikoro) in Ruhengeri (Musanze) this morning. Altitude is 1850m and habitat is eucalypt 'forest' (6.5 hectares) with wild understorey (dense in some places) and adjacent to the road to the Cyanika border with Uganda. According to one of my guys, the bird has been around for a few days now.

It had been perched when I saw it the 1st time from where it flew to two other perches, avoiding my camera at all costs it seemed. I caught a hint of what appeared to be a pale rump - paler than the rest of the brown back and the dark fingers were distinct. Flight was slow 'relaxed' wingbeats. The last time it took off, it started circling higher and further albeit with hardly a wingbeat so must've found some good currents. This is the only time I managed to get photos.

Dick Forsman has kindly just confirmed the ID as Common (Steppe) Buzzard Buteo buteo vulpinus. This is the 1st record for this species at our site and also the first that I have for Ruhengeri where the bird was not on soaring high on passage.

Trip to Bare & 2nd Country record for Peter's Twinspot

Posted by Jason on the Rwanda_BurundiBirds group on 18 October 2010

On Sunday I went to my favourite papyrus swamp near Kibungo. As well as fantastic views of my favourite pair of Papyrus Gonoleks, I came across a pair of Peter's Twinspot, which is apparently only the second record for Rwanda, here in the northwestern most corner of its range.

A very early morning moto dropped me off at Bare and I walked down to the bridge between Ngoma and Kirihe Districts (GPS S 2.29347, E 30.50067) before the mist had cleared. Despite the thick white blanket of cloud, the dew raining off the trees and the rather persistent mozzies, the birds were already active when I arrived, with the call of the White-winged Warbler ringing out every 30m or so as I walked down, along with more occasional Greater Swamp Warblers gargling their way through their curious repertoire.

Almost immediately (where I saw my first ever pair), a pair of Papyrus Gonoleks came into view, and turned on their amazing duet for me. Since the rains started (approx. 1 month) the PGs have been reasserting their territory. This pair provided some smashing pics:
http://kilnsey.tripod.com/pap1.jpg ; http://kilnsey.tripod.com/pap2.jpg

Other good birds in this early period included Collared Sunbird, European Bee-eater, Meyer's Parrot, Vieillot's Black Weaver (lots), Yellow-throated Greenbul, Holub's Golden Weaver (got lovely photos of a pair nestbuilding), Winding and Red-faced Cisticola (alas still no Carruther's!), Yellow Bishop (males just starting to adorn breeding plumage), Grey-capped Warbler, Mackinnon's Shrike, Spur-winged Goose, Black Crake, Yellow-billed Duck and Woodland Kingfisher.

Migrants included a steady stream of European Bee-eaters, at least 3 Common Buzzard, one Wahlberg's Eagle, and one (perhaps an intra-African migrant?) Ayres's Hawk-Eagle with its very distinctive underwing markings and flight pattern. My 2nd record for Rwanda.

As the mist rose, and the day began to heat up, I headed north east along the edge of the papyrus, finding several nice valleys with remnant or degraded woodland. These provided Lesser Honeyguide, E. Grey Plantain-eater, Black-headed Oriole, Narina Trogon (a bit of a surprise, but it gave fantastic views as it slouched nonchalantly over a branch in a big fig tree), Copper Sunbird, Grey-backed Camaroptera, Siffling Cisticola (in nearby scrub), Green-backed Woodpecker (only my 3rd record for Rwanda of this dainty little guy, calling with a surprisingly plover-like two part slurred whistle), African Dusky Flycatcher, Chinspot Batis, Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, African Citril, Green-headed Sunbird, White-chinned Prinia and Banded Mongoose hurrying along busily in front of me as I sat for lunch.

The edge of the papyrus also produced Black-and-white Mannikin, Cape Wagtail, Black headed (melanocephalus) Weaver (males just starting to come into breeding plumage), Yellow-throated Longclaw (surprisingly! These guys get everywhere), African Marsh Harrier, Northern Brown-throated Weaver, Swamp Flycatcher, Blue Monkey (not really a bird, but visible today as they were coming to the edges of the swamps to feed on the palm dates - Is this Phoenix Palm on the edges of the papyrus?), and I also found a pair of Spot-flanked Barbets nesting in the stump of an old palm, where they'd chiselled out a perfectly round nesthole: http://kilnsey.tripod.com/barb1.jpg

On my way back, I stumbled haphazardly on the highlight of the day, a pair of scruptiously beautiful Peter's Twinspots, feeding very casually on the freshly dug bean fields between overgrown vegetation and the edge of the swamp. What an amazing stunner this guy is, and his wife was quite cute too! Wow! Managed to get photos of what was a first for me, and it turned out, only the second record for Rwanda: http://kilnsey.tripod.com/peter1.jpg

This week I'm off on a whistle-stop tour of Nyungwe, Cyamudongo and then up to the Virungas to see chimps, gorillas, hopefully a few birds. I feel like a child on Xmas eve!

Jason

Black-crowned Waxbill - altitudinal wanderings?

Another interesting set of sightings from Dave up at Sabinyo Silverback lodge. (NW Rwanda adjacent to Volcanoes NP)

He mentioned the other day to me that he had seen Black-crowned Waxbill Estrilda nonnula up at the lodge - I thought this very odd as I've only recorded Black-headed/Kandt's Waxbill E. atricapilla there and the altitude 2500+m would be theoretically too high for E. nonnula.

Black-crowned Waxbill (photo by Dave Richards)

Dave got this photo of an unmistakable E. nonnula during March-June stint up at the lodge. The vent is white and the white underparts correspond with my photos (one below) of E. nonnula down in Ruhengeri (altitude 1840m). Even More interesting is that Dave saw some nonnula feeding with a loose flock of atricapilla! Something I've not come across in Rwanda at all before.

Stevenson & Fanshawe (Field Guide to the Birds of East Africa - Kenya Tanzania Uganda Rwanda Burundi) give altitudinal range for E. nonnula as 800-2200m and Zimmerman et al (Birds of Kenya & Northern Tanzania) as 1500-2000m - either way, these birds are minimum 300m above the range. Britton (Britton 1980) in "Birds of East Africa" does not refer to Rwanda but mentions Virunga Volcanoes, Kigezi in SW Uganda where E. nonnula occurs below 1600m. An altitudinal range of 800-2200m is also given.

The habitat in this case for E. nonnula per se is thus fine i.e. forest edges and clearings but has gone at least 300m above the known (from the above literature) range.

Below I've added 2 of my photos of the both E. nonnula (Ruhengeri 1840m altitude) and E. atricapilla (also lodge location at c.2520m altitude)

Black-crowned Waxbill E. nonnula photographed in Ruhengeri town (Rwanda) at 1840m altitude.

Black-headed (Kandt's) Waxbill E. atricapilla photographed in 2009 at Sabinyo Silverback Lodge at c.2520m altitude

Rufous-chested Sparrowhawk (Accipiter rufiventris) - Kinigi, Rwanda

I went to visit Dave Richards (17 Oct 2010) up at the lodge in Kinigi after he told me about "different/strange" nesting Accipiters. This was also posted on the Rwanda_Burundi group on 17 October 2010 (Dave's photos can also be seen on the group messages).

Female Rufous-chested Sparrowhawk which had been feeding the chicks in the nest

As background;
- the location is a mix of bamboo and dense shrubs with patches of Eucalypt trees and located about 800m-1km from the perimeter of the Volcanoes National Park, Kinigi (about 20km from Musanze) and at altitude of c2560m.
- earlier the year Dave had regularly seen a pair of Rufous-chested Sparrowhawks (A. rufiventris) hunting around the lodge area including once seeing an adult take a waxbill.

Today;
- nest located at the edge of a stand of Eucalypt trees about 20-30m high; typical small stick nest - one composite of Dave's photos attached shows a juvenile bird on the nest
- Dave has regularly witnessed the female adult feed the 2 chicks in the nest; the latter fledging about 2 weeks ago - no male bird accipiter was seen anywhere near this location up to this stage.
- my photos of the juvenile, a very obliging model eventually, was just after it had caught and eaten a Chubb's Cisticola and it was very obviously rather stuffed.

Rufous-chested Sparrowhawk - juvenile

Now the 'strangeness' - we both managed to get photos of the female and a juvenile; the undersides are very similar with blotchy, almost streaky rufous marks on the chest going down toward the belly with a stronger rufous wash/patch on the flanks. In the event of this being A. rufiventris, the underside plumage of the adult female is in direct contrast to all literature (Sinclair & Ryan, Zimmerman et al, Kemp, Britton and Stevenson & Fanshawe) which mention that the female is darker underside than the adult male.

Rufous-chested Sparrowhawk - juvenile

The underside plumage of the juvenile as seen and photographed is not illustrated, mentioned or even alluded to in any of the above literature. The only 'agreement' is on the feint /pale eye-stripe and (as mentioned in 2-3 cases) the rufous ear area giving the bird a capped look.

Responses this far;

Callan Cohen (Birding Africa): The juvenile plumage of Rufous-chested Sparr is quite variable, but your bird is certainly consistent with what we see in South Africa (the same race, rufiventris) -- normally the chest is streaked rufous (can be quite dark brownish), but then some of the feathers show some some barring which normally becomes more apparent lower down (you can see some of these barred feathers on this bird). They can end up looking quite mottled. Juvenile birds around Cape Town quite often show those white feathers on the back so it's curious as to why that doesn't seem to be mentioned in the literature.

Etienne Marais (Indicator Birding): Little Sparrowhawk is known to breed while still showing juvenile plumage, in the case of the pair I was monitoring in Pretoria, South Africa the female died of unknown causes and was replaced within ten days by a “young” female still showing immature plumage. I’ve heard other reports of this from Hugh Chittenden in Zululand.

Update (22 Oct)

Michel Louette (Head of Department African Zoology, Royal Museum for Central Africa, Tervuren, Belgium) I have checked the specimens in our collection. These birds are A. rufiventris. The parent bird must be a “second calendar year”. A. rufiventris is very close to A. nisus, based on the COI molecular study (see Van Houdt, J., Sonet, G., Breman, F. and Louette, M. DNA barcoding of European Accipiter and their African relatives. Abstract 2009 EOU Zurich).

Bill Clark: I was shown a nest of a pair near Stellenbosch in Cape Province years ago in which the female was not fully adult. The pair looked just like yours.

Dave Richards managed to get photos of another individual yesterday (21 Oct) that was continuously calling throughout the morning until c.2:30pm. Below is the photo - this appears to be a 5th individual as it's clearly not one of the 1st three we photographed and is also not the male bird we saw fly past us the other that had the dark rufous underside - a textbook version of A. rufiventris male.

(photo by Dave Richards)

Migrants and "wind-blowns" in Ruhengeri (Musanze)

I arrived back in Ruhengeri (Musanze) Saturday (9 Oct) to some interesting birds. The last few days before my arrival there had been fairly severe storms and northerly winds which may have played a role in the following records.

First "oddity" in the garden was a pair of Ring-necked Doves, not a bird really seen in this neck of the woods with only 5 records on the Atlas database from the lodge site at the edge of Ruhengeri town.

This was followed by a Ross' Turaco moving between the various avocado and fig trees in my and the adjoining properties. After about 15 minutes we heard a ruckus in one of the trees next door and saw the Augur Buzzard trying to get to the now madly scrambling Turaco. This is the 1st record I have for this species north of Kigali - all other records are from East and SW Rwanda and Kigali.

Meanwhile I'd texted Jason about the sightings and while reading his response about Common Buzzards in Kibungo, we had 4 flying over in southerly direction, very high but a certain ID. The only sightings before I've had of Common Buzzards here was with Jason at Lake Ruhondo when they were on passage back north during April/May.

Jason's note to me about "heaps" of migrants out Kibungo side on Saturday might also indicate a huge movement due to the strong northerly winds.

Trip to Southern fringes of Akagera NP (3 Oct 2010)

Posted by Jason on the Rwanda_BurundiBirds group on 27 September 2010

On Sunday I visited the southern fringes of Akagera National Park for a full-day's birding. My aim was to reach the shores of Lake Ihema, which I just managed, and had a very interesting day's birding in the process. I made a trip to this part of the park back in February, although then I went due east. This time, I wanted to stay on the periphery of the park (south east from Nyankora -1.938018° + 30.669278° to -1.961080° + 30.717770°) and make it to the shores of the lake; partly to investigate the human impact on this border area, and partly to get to the lake without coming across any Buffalo, which are, according to the locals, rather common in this part of the park.

See pic: http://kilnsey.tripod.com/south_akagera.jpg

I set off from Nyankora at just before 7am. In the farming valley just east of the town were a pair of Thick-billed Weavers, plentiful Scarlet-chested Sunbirds and Western Citrils. I didn't hang around too long, given the distance I had to cover and the rather Velcro-like nature of the children in this particular corner of Rwanda. As I sped up the hillside towards the transmitter mast that marks the south western corner of the park, I spotted Southern Black Flycatcher (I often see this species in the plantain groves), Eastern Black-headed Oriole, Black-crowned Tchagra (this seems to be much commoner nowadays – and nearly always in drier habitat than Brown-crowned) and Ring-necked Dove. The first interesting bird was a Copper Sunbird, a species I haven't seen since 9th May (and interestingly according to the Tanzanian Bird Atlas Yahoo Group, a species with local seasonal movements).

Migrants (very obvious today) at this stage included European Bee-eater (today's count was a minimum 120 birds – from just 3 parties alone) and Barn Swallow, which were omnipresent all day long; feeding, so v. difficult to count.

Black-collared Barbet was the first real fix; my 3rd record for Rwanda (my 1st, a breeding record, was nearby, and the other was also in the park). I found a fruiting… tree (not sure about the species), which provided the first of many Spotted Flycatchers as well as Ross's Turaco, Meyer's Parrot and more Common Bulbuls than you could shake a stick at, and before I knew it I was at the hill top mast, watching at a Familiar Chat, and spotting a non-breeding Yellow Bishop male nearby. As soon as I hit the park fringes, the species changed. I heard Yellow-breasted Apalis, Green-backed Camaroptera, and more distant, the call of African Grey Hornbill (the first time I've heard it in Rwanda, surprisingly – pre-breeding behaviour?). The Miombo woodland just beneath the mast had suffered from forest fire this summer, however, it was regenerating fast, with few trees burnt, and a fresh carpet of grass so green I was almost tempted to graze.

Collared Flycatcher
A little further and Marico Sunbird, Green Wood-hoopoe and Miombo Wren-warbler all came into range. The Spotted Flycatchers were very numerous here. At least 12 separate individuals within 30 minutes. Then I spotted a (female/non-breeding) Ficedula flycatcher also nearby. It took a while to get good views of, but when I did, the lack of white on the median coverts, combined with the fairly pale neck sides and no trace of a paler rump showed it to be a Collared Flycatcher, only my 2nd record for Rwanda after being shown one on Marcell's plot, and my first for Akagera or the east. Poor quality pics here: http://kilnsey.tripod.com/collared_flycatcher.jpg (photo on left)

This Collared Flycatcher turned out to be the harbinger of one of those golden birding periods (often early morning), when you can't point your bins anywhere without seeing beauty. Above, a party of over 50 European Bee-eaters swooped down to hawk above the trees, a few alighting for a well-deserved break on their way south. Another Pale Wren-warbler confided in me, allowing a few nice pics, and then one of my favourites of all: Souza's Shrike – surprisingly my first record for the park, and as with previous birds, quite confiding for photos (photo below): http://kilnsey.tripod.com/souzas_shrike.jpg What's interesting about this bird is how weak the brown is on the mantle and wings. Far closer to Mackinnon's than Red-backed. Then White-winged Black Tit, Red-headed Weaver (male looking bloody marvellous in breeding garb), Siffling Cisticola, African Paradise-Flycatcher and Black-backed Puffback.

Souza's Shrike

The rush eventually died off, and I headed on towards the lake. In a small gulley below I found Lesser Honeyguide, Collared Sunbird, Sulphur-breasted Bush-shrike and Black-faced Waxbill. Above I spotted a male Bateleur, followed soon after by a female, and then another raptor broke the skyline: The distinctive contrasts of Brown Snake-eagle were easy to ID; my first record for Rwanda. A nice cameo, but it was soon gone back over the hilltop. As I passed through the thickest woodland in the gulley, a small dark sunbird that showed well turned out to be Purple-banded, my 2nd confirmed for Rwanda. As I began to come out onto the plains, Crested Barbet, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird (this turned out to be my 1000th bird record for the park) and Tabora Cisticola all showed up. A feeding party with Red-cheeked Cordon-Bleus and Trilling Cisticolas also turned up a finer delicacy: migrant Icterine Warblers, at least 2 (followed by another presumed different 2 birds half an hour later). A distant Greater Honeyguide was calling and White-headed Saw-wings were feeding low overhead as my phone went. I sat down for a 10-minute chat with my mum, who complained about English weather and her computer blues as I sat under an acacia tree in the blistering sunshine, happy that I was nowhere else.

As the plain flattened out, more birds followed: Chinspot Batis, Augur Buzzard, Lilac-breasted Roller, juvenile Grey-headed Kingfisher, and then Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater (this one the first of 3 seen today at 1340m – see previous discussion on the altitude flexibility of this species – I think this is our lowest confirmed record for Rwanda).

The sun wasn't planning to let off, so I decided to pick up the pace in order to make the lakeside. It was already 11am, and I had drunk half of my 3 litres of water. The park edge on this side is marked by a 4 foot-deep ditch followed by a bank (created since Google Earth pics were taken), presumably to keep the buffalo in and the cows out (although it is broken in several places, probably intentionally by cattle grazers taking livestock in). The top of the bank provides a nice vantage point and a convenient path. Before I made the lake I added Slate-coloured Boubou and Red-billed Quelea to my day list.

As soon as I reached the edge of the lake, the sounds and sights changed quickly; Hadada Ibis, Squacco Heron, Helmeted Guineafowl, Woodland Kingfisher, Common Sandpiper, Malachite Kingfisher and some very tall papyrus, broken only by several thick hippo paths. I tried to call up Papyrus Gonolek and White-winged Warbler, but got just Greater Swamp Warbler and 2 tsetse flies for my troubles.

By now it was past 1pm, and I was soon going to have to turn back. My water supply wasn't looking too good – 1 litre left, and it was getting hotter. I dived into a woodland glade, one of many small, thick copses on the lakeside to find a shady spot for lunch and was delighted to come across a pair of Scaly-throated Honeyguides, very confiding, allowing very nice views. This was my first ever record for this bird, and the real gem for me today. Smashing.

I sat down to have lunch under a tree before doing a last spot of lakeside birding which turned up more really nice records. In the dead treetops above I spotted a pair of Grey Kestrels, one of them a suspected juvenile (see photo: http://kilnsey.tripod.com/grey_kestrel.jpg ) Then in the tree above me, a weird frog-like call turned out to be a Broad-billed Roller, partner calling nearby. Before I headed off, I also got Red-capped Robin-chat, Purple-crested Turaco, Black Cuckoo-shrike (fem.), and a pair of Yellow-throated Greenbul. African Fish Eagle and Common Scimitarbill were the last 2 before I began my attempt to make it back in the belting afternoon sun with only half a litre of water, and an already dry throat.

As always, the way back turned out to be much further than the way there. I had seriously underestimated my water requirements for the first time in ages, and found myself having to leave nearly all (bird) calls for attention to ensure I made it back without any danger. The two notables on the way that I couldn't miss were White-browed Coucal and White (-crested) Helmet-Shrike (at least 4). I stumbled into Nyankora a little worse for wear, and found a bar with a fridge, ice-cold water and soda to quench my raging thirst. I got a few funny looks, but savoured the moment, wondering when I would be able to get back to that magical spot, if ever? I had only scratched the surface of this lakeside woodland, and I bet there's a lot more there to be discovered. Just under 90 species. Any previous for Scaly-throated in the park, Marcell? (Marcell: these are indeed the 1st records in Atlas project for this Species)

Jason